Twill Weave

Twill weave is the second basic weave pattern used in fabric manufacturing technology. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The main features of these weaves the distinguished from other types in the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

Basic characteristics of twill weaves are:

1. They from diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.
2. More ends and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
3. Less binding points than fabric.
4. Better cover thickness and more mass per unit area.
5. More cloth thickness.
6. Interesting surface and texture.
7. More pliable.
8. Better wrinkle recovery.

Classification of twill weave: The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms.

1. According to the way of construction:
1. Warp way twill weave.
2. Weft way twill weave.
2. According to the direction of twill lines on the face of fabrics:
1. S-twill.
2. Z-twill.
3. According to the face of yarn:
1. Warp face twill weave.
2. Weft face twill weave.
3. Double face twill weave.
4. According to the nature of the produced twill lines:
1. Simple twill weave.
2. Expanded twill weave.
3. Multiple twill weave.

S-twill: When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left corner, the twill is known as left hand twill or S-twill. The alignment of twill line is parallel to the middle portion of ‘S’. So it is called S-twill.

Z-twill: When the diagonal lines form the lower left corner to the upper right corner, the twill is known as right hand twill or Z-twill. The alignment of twill line is parallel to the middle portion of ‘Z’. So it is called Z-twill.

Derivatives of twill weave: Weaves are developer on the basis of principle of twill weave or from regular twill; these are called derivatives of twill weave. 

The common twill derivatives are listed below:

1. Zig-Zag twill weave.
2. Herring bone twill weave.
3. Diamond twill weave.
4. Diaper twill weave.
5. Broken twill weave.
6. Re-arranged twill weave.
7. Stepped twill weave.
8. Elongated twill weave.
9. Combined twill weave.
10. Shaded twill weave.
11. Curved twill weave.