Count in Different System

Tex: The yarn number or count in the tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

The system is therefore a direct system simply define and simple to use. For fibers, the fineness is expressed in “Militex”.

Militex: Count in the militex system is the weight in mg of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

Kilotex: Count in the kilotex system is the weight in kg of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

Denier: The no. of count in denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9km of yarn.

Pound per spindle (Jute system): The yarn number or count in the pound per spindle is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn.

Indirect system:

English system (Ne): The yarn number or count in English system is defined as the number of hanks 840yds per pound. It is denoted by Ne.

Metric system: The yarn number or count in metric system is defined as the number of hanks (1000m) per kg. It is denoted by Nm.

Worsted system: The yarn number or count in worsted system is defined as the number of hanks (560yds) per pounds. It is denoted by Nw.

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Seam Classification

There are 100types of seam. Here 6types of seams are discussed that are mostly used in garments. These six types are,

1. Super imposed seam.
2. Lapped seam.
3. Bound seam.
4. Flat seam.
5. Decorative seam.
6. Edge neatening.

Super imposed seam:

Feature:

i.                    Most Commonly used seam.

ii.                  This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the fiber and on the other fabric end.

iii.                Same direction of sewn ends of the fabric.

Uses:

i.                    Seam can be used for both joining and edge neatening.

ii.                  Especially this seam is used in side seam of shirt and trouser.

Lapped seam:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam consists of at least two piece of fabric.

ii.                  The two ends sides of both fabrics are reverse to each other.

Uses:

i.                    This type of seam is especially used in jeans pant.

Bound seam:

Feature:

i.                    At least two piece of fabric is required to produce this seam.

ii.                  One side of a fabric is bounded another side of another fabric.

iii.                Below figure bound seam is widely used in garments for both functional and decorative purpose.

Flat seam:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam is prepared through joining of the two ends of two pieces of fabric.

ii.                  Here no overlapping is done of the fabric rather the fabric is kept beside to each other.

iii.                Due to lower strength of seam, it is usually used in knitted and under garments and also for decorative purpose.

Decorative seam:

Feature:

i.                    Mainly this type of seam is produced to increase the beauty of garments.

ii.                  This type of seam is prepared by making one or more that one stitch line on one ply or multiply of fabric.

Uses:

i.                    Increased beauty and decorated purpose of garments.

Edge neatening:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam is mainly prepared in selvedge of the fabric in such a way that threads can not come out from the end of fabric.

ii.                  This type of seam is mostly used in garments.

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Gas Singeing Machine

This is the most commonly used process for both woven and knit fabrics.

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Scouring of Man Made Fiber

Man made fiber are comparatively free from impurities and so much milder methods of scouring are applied for them,

1. Nylon:

i. Synthetic detergent = 1.5-2 parts/L.

ii. Sodium Carbonate = 0.5-1.5 parts/L.

iii. Washing start temperature = 20-30ºC (Normal).

         = 70-80ºC (Non-heat set).

         = 90-100ºC (for heat set).

2. Acrylic fiber: 1% Non ionic detergent temperature 80ºC.
3. Rayon/Viscose:

i. Soap/Detergent = 0.3%.

ii. Na₂CO₃ = 1%.

iii. Temperature = 80-90ºC.

Acrylic fiber is the main element of our sweeter.

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Difference between scouring and souring:

The difference between scouring and souring is given below,

Scouring	Souring
1. To remove oil, wax, impurities etc.	1. Not to remove any impurities but for neutralization.
2. Scouring is done in alkaline solution.	2. Souring is done dilute HCl or H2SO4.
3. Required heat to boiling.	3. No need to heat.
4. Need to definite time.	4. No need to definite time.

 

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Soap

Soap is a metallic salt of saturated or unsaturated higher fatty acid. There may be Pb, Mg, Ca or other metallic salts. Soap is made up commercially by boiling natural oil.

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Winding Principle of Simplex

There are two winding principle of simplex. They are,

1. In simplex the bobbin speed must be higher than the flyer speed for winding.

   If the flyer speed is N_F and bobbin speed is N_B. They according to the principle:

N_B>N_F

So, winding on speed = N_B-N_F

                              Then, N_W=N_B-N_F…………(i).

2. If the diameter increases due to winding, then the bobbin speed must be decreased.

Let, the delivery speed = L inch per minute.

At any instant, the bobbin dia = d inch.

Then the winding speed, N_W = (L/πd)…………(ii).

Now, from the equation (i) and (ii) we get,

N_B-N_F = (L/πd).

            Then, L = πd (N_B-N_F).

Building Mechanism of Winding: There are three important tasks are occurred for building on a package,

1. Bobbin speed must be decreased due to winding in each layer.
2. Lifting the bobbin rail for stable.
3. Shorten the lifting of bobbin rail for tapper end.

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Process sequence of Cotton Cultivation and Harvesting

Process sequence of Cotton Cultivation and Harvesting:

Seed are sown in spring

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They sprout after 2-3 week

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After 2-3 months of sprouting plant flowe3rs bloom

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The flowers fall off after a few days and leaving cotton balls.

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Seed hairs start to grow inside the balls

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For 16-18 days fiber length and other parameter are achieved

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For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the fiber

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When cellulose deposition is stopped, the balls become dry and burst normally and the cotton appears as a soft wad of fine fiber

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The balls are picked up manually or by machine, these picking periods continue for 1-3 months.

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Finally the balls are taken for ginning to collect the fibers.

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Fabric Consumption of a Basic Woven Shirt

Measurement required:

1. Body length (HSP) = 75cm.
2. ½ Chest= 55cm.
3. Sleeve length= 65cm.
4. Arm hole (Straight) = 25cm.
5. Collar length= 41cm.
6. Collar width= 6cm.
7. Collar band length= 32cm.
8. Collar band width= 2cm.
9. Pocket length= 14cm.
10. Pocket width= 12cm.
11. Extra yoke length= 48cm.
12. Extra yoke height= 11.5cm.
13. Fabric width= 56inch.
14. Wastage= 5%.

Body Section:

A= (Body length + Allowance) × (½ chest + Allowance) × 2

   = (75+5) × (55+6) × 2 sq.cm.

   = 9760 sq.cm.

Sleeve Section:

B= (Sleeve length + Allowance) × (Arm hole + Allowance) ×2×2

   = (65+4) × (25+) ×4 sq.cm.

   =8280 sq.cm.

Collar Section:

C= (Collar length+ Allowance) × (Collar width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (41+4) × (6+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 720 sq.cm.

Collar Band Section:

D= (Collar band length+ Allowance) × (Collar band width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (32+3) × (2+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 280 sq.cm.

Pocket Section:

E= (Pocket length+ Allowance) × (Pocket width+ Allowance)

   = (14+2) ×(12+1) sq.cm.

   = 208 sq.cm.

Extra Yoke Section:

F= (Yoke length+ Allowance) ×( Yoke height+ Allowance) ×2

   = (48+4) × (11.5+3) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 108 sq.cm.

Total Fabric Consumption = A+B+C+D+E+F

     = 9760+8280+720+280+208+1508

     = 20756 sq.cm.

Now divided this amount by (2.54)2, then we will get 3217.18 sq.inch.

So, Total Fabric Required = (3217.18/56) inch.

                                           = (57.45/36) yards.

                                           = 1.6yards.

So, Fabric Consumption per dozen= 1.6× 12 +5% OLF

                                                        = (19.2+ 0.96) Yards.

                                                        = 20.16 yards.

Fabric Price per Yards is = $2.5

So, Fabric Cost = $2.5× 20.16

                          = $ 50.4

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Thread Consumption of Basic Woven Shirt

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Overlock Sewing Machine

For seaming, edging or hemming the overlock machine is perfect which sew the one or two pieces of cloth. After sew the fabric overlock machine cut the edge of the fabric. In North America this is called Sergers. But there is some overlock machine which not included cutter. Cutters helps to done the work very fast, easily and quickly. Overlock machine is not same as lockstitch sewing machine which uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. The RPM of overlock machine is 1000 to 9000. Overlock sewing machine is also can be used for construction, reinforcement or decoration.

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Basic Shirt

Component of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Collar.

2)    Collar band or collar stand.

3)    Upper yoke.

4)    Lower yoke.

5)    Left front part.

6)    Right front part.

7)    Sleeve.                

a)     R-Sleeve

b)    L-Sleeve

8)    Cuff.                   

9)    Placket.                

a)     Upper placket.

b)    Lower Placket.

10)           Back part.

11)           Pocket.                       

12)           Facing.                        

a)     Upper facing                

b)    Lower facing                          

Sketch of a Basic Shirt

Accessories and trimmings of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Sewing Thread.

2)    Button.                 

3)    Label                     

a.     Care label

b.     Size label

c.      Main label

4)    Interlining.

5)    Motif.

6)    Neck board

7)    Back board.

8)    Hang tag.

9)    Price ticket.

10)     Tag pin

11)     Tissue Paper.

12)     Polly bag.

Machine required for making shirt: Mainly two machines are used for basic shirt making. These are:

a.     Over lock m/c

b.     Plain stitch m/c

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Center close shed

Center close shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to from the top line & downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line, then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet the center. Here warp threads move in an upward & downward direction from a center line.

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Timing of Shedding

The shedding mechanism is set according to the picking & beat-up mechanisms. Timing of shedding is set with respect to crank position. In general there are three timings. These are:

1. Normal shedding
2. Early shedding
3. Late shedding

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Shirley Automatic Size Box

To maintain constant concentration the ordinary size box can’t do it. That’s why the Shirley automatic size box has been introduced with us.

Purpose of Shirley Automatic size box: In the size box Shirley automatic size box maintain constant level of size solution and also maintain constant concentration per volume.

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Types of Sizing

Sizing is four types. These are,

1. Pure sizing.

2. Light sizing.

3. Medium sizing.

4. Heavy sizing.

Pure sizing: To produce unbleached fabric when sizing is done on yarn is called pure sizing. On the weight of yarn 7-10% the size ingredients are used.

Light sizing: In case of printing and dyeing the sized are used is called light sizing. About 11-15% sizing ingredients are used on the weight of yarn.

Medium sizing: To increase the weight of yarn and strength. About 16-40% sizing ingredients are used on the weight of yarn.

Heavy sizing: Heavy sizing is known as when sizing is done on lower count and twisted yarn. Above 40% sizing ingredients are used on the weight of yarn.

Size takes up%: On the yarn surface the amount of the size material added is called size takes up percentage.

Size takes up% = (Weight of size yarn-weight of unsized yarn)/ Weight of unsized yarn *100%.

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Static Electricity

Due to friction between two surfaces, a charge is created there is called Static Electricity. These charges can not move from the place to another place. But between the two surfaces the charges can exchanged with one another. Static Electricity is also known as Frictional Electricity.

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Difference between Melt, Dry and Wet spinning

The difference between melt spinning, dry spinning and wet spinning is given below:

Parameter	Melt spinning	Dry spinning	Wet spinning
1. Investment cost	Low	High	Low
2. Hazard	Non-toxic	Toxic	Toxic
3. Heat of spg	High	Very high	Low
4. Spinneret holes	2000	300-900	20000-75000
5. Spg speed	2500-3000ft/min	2500-3000ft/min	150-300ft/min
6. Productivity	High	High	Low
7. Solvent	Not required	Only volatile organic solvent	Beth organic & inorganic solvent can be use
8. Example	Polyester, Nylon-6	Cellulose, Acetate. PAN	Viscose rayon

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Spinning

Spinning: Spinning is three types. These are:

1.     Melt spinning.

2.     Dry spinning.

3.     Wet spinning.

Melt Spinning: The process of spinning by which fiber or filament is produced from melted polymer chips by extruding though spinning continuous filament produced here.

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Some Knit Fabric Structure

Fabric structure of some knit garments:

1. Single jersey: Face side of single jersey shows wales wise straight lines, on the other hand, back side shows course wise wavy lines.

2. Polo pique: Face side looks like honey comb and back side looks like wales wise straight lines.

3. Back pique: There are diagonally floating effect on the face side and hole on the back side.

4. Normal rib: Both sides of the fabric are looks similar.

5. Interlock: Both sides of the fabric are looks similar but less stretchable than rib.

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