Product Costing

Costing is a process by which to set a price of a product is calculated by considering all the related factors. Doing Cost Analysis is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes. Costing of the products considering the raw material expenditure, salary of officers and workers, distributions and advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect expenses is considered very honestly. It is determined by a troop of accountants with advice and consultancy of executive director.

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Count in Different System

Tex: The yarn number or count in the tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

The system is therefore a direct system simply define and simple to use. For fibers, the fineness is expressed in “Militex”.

Militex: Count in the militex system is the weight in mg of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

Kilotex: Count in the kilotex system is the weight in kg of 1000m or 1km of yarn.

Denier: The no. of count in denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9km of yarn.

Pound per spindle (Jute system): The yarn number or count in the pound per spindle is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn.

Indirect system:

English system (Ne): The yarn number or count in English system is defined as the number of hanks 840yds per pound. It is denoted by Ne.

Metric system: The yarn number or count in metric system is defined as the number of hanks (1000m) per kg. It is denoted by Nm.

Worsted system: The yarn number or count in worsted system is defined as the number of hanks (560yds) per pounds. It is denoted by Nw.

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Ginning of Cotton Seed

Ginning of seed cotton: The freshly picked cotton has seeds in it is called seed cotton. After picking the cotton fiber has to be separated from seeds. The process by which the seeds are separated from the fiber is called ginning. There are mainly two types of ginning.

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How to Dye Cotton Yarn

There is a long story of Yarn Dyeing. Recent days to a craft project, hand dyed yarn can add a personal touch. To dye different types of yarn you can use many more natural materials including powdered drinks and flowers. There is 11 steps to dye cotton yarn which I described below.

1. Buy the yarn: At first buy the yarn in a hank, not a ball. A hank had long twist and braid. You must have to ensure that the yarn should be dyeable cotton. To ensure this just check the label.
2. Prepare the detergent to clean the yarn:
1. Fill a bath with clean water. There should be enough water to submerge the yarn, ever yarn absorbed water by yarn.
2. Put detergent into the water. To remove excess dyes from textile is the main purpose of using detergent. Also detergent keeps the color from bleeding.
3. Soak the yarn in the detergent solution: Soaking the yarn will ensure that it is clean, and that all colors or substances that hinder the dyeing process are washed away.
1. Place the hank of yarn into the bucket of water and soap. Use rubber gloves when handling the yarn. Rubber gloves will keep your hands from being stained with dye or chemicals.
2. Allow the yarn to soak until it is completely wet, for approximately 1 hour.
4. Remove the yarn from the bath:
1. From bath take the yarn out of water and soap.
2. To remove moisture wring out the hank of yarn.
3. Empty and rinse the bath.
5. Prepare the soda ash: Place water and soda ash in the bath. Then mix them. After that just ensure soda ash dissolved.
6. Soak the yarn in the soda ash solution: To cling the yarn fibers which helped by soda ash. Buy soda ash at a yarn supply or crafts store.
1. Place the hank of yarn in the bath. Allow the yarn to soak for five minutes.
2. Remove the yarn.
3. Twist the yarn with slight pressure to remove moisture.
4. Lay the yarn on a flat sheet of plastic. Ensure that the yarn is spread evenly in a long line.
7. Mix the dye.
8. Combine 1 qt: Combine hot water with urea in a large container. Ensure that the urea dissolves in the water. Urea is a chemical that keeps the yarn wet, ensuring that the dye sticks to the yarn. Urea is available at yarn supply or crafts stores.
1. Place 1tsp of cold reactive dye into a cup. Cold reactive dye is a dye specially formulated for use with textiles.
2. Pour just enough water into the cup to make a paste. Mix the dye well.
3. Add 1 cup of the urea water to the paste.
4. Use the same procedure for any additional colors you with to use. Mix each color in a separate cup.
9. Dye the yarn:
1. Use a foam brush to apply the dye to the yarn. Apply the dye with short sweeping motions. Begin at one end of the yarn and move towards the opposite end. Use a separate foam brush for each color of dye.
2. Flip the yarn over onto its undyed side when you have reached the end of the line of yarn.
3. Repeat the application of the dye, moving from one end of the yarn to the other.
4. Look inside the center portion of the yarn to ensure that all of the yarn has been dyed.
5. Apply dye to any sports that you missed.
10. Cover the yarn: Place a plastic sheet over the yarn. Allow the yarn to remain covered for 24 hours.
11. Remove the excess dye:
1. Combine 1 tsp textile detergent in a bath with enough water to submerge the hank of yarn.
2. Remove the plastic sheet from the yarn.
3. Hold the yarn over a sink.
4. Pour the soapy water over the yarn. Continue to rinse the yarn until the water is clear. Ensure that the yarn remains as free of tangles as possible.
5. Twist the yarn gently to remove moisture.
6. Allow the yarn to dry.

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Seam Classification

There are 100types of seam. Here 6types of seams are discussed that are mostly used in garments. These six types are,

1. Super imposed seam.
2. Lapped seam.
3. Bound seam.
4. Flat seam.
5. Decorative seam.
6. Edge neatening.

Super imposed seam:

Feature:

i.                    Most Commonly used seam.

ii.                  This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the fiber and on the other fabric end.

iii.                Same direction of sewn ends of the fabric.

Uses:

i.                    Seam can be used for both joining and edge neatening.

ii.                  Especially this seam is used in side seam of shirt and trouser.

Lapped seam:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam consists of at least two piece of fabric.

ii.                  The two ends sides of both fabrics are reverse to each other.

Uses:

i.                    This type of seam is especially used in jeans pant.

Bound seam:

Feature:

i.                    At least two piece of fabric is required to produce this seam.

ii.                  One side of a fabric is bounded another side of another fabric.

iii.                Below figure bound seam is widely used in garments for both functional and decorative purpose.

Flat seam:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam is prepared through joining of the two ends of two pieces of fabric.

ii.                  Here no overlapping is done of the fabric rather the fabric is kept beside to each other.

iii.                Due to lower strength of seam, it is usually used in knitted and under garments and also for decorative purpose.

Decorative seam:

Feature:

i.                    Mainly this type of seam is produced to increase the beauty of garments.

ii.                  This type of seam is prepared by making one or more that one stitch line on one ply or multiply of fabric.

Uses:

i.                    Increased beauty and decorated purpose of garments.

Edge neatening:

Feature:

i.                    This type of seam is mainly prepared in selvedge of the fabric in such a way that threads can not come out from the end of fabric.

ii.                  This type of seam is mostly used in garments.

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Difference between Carding and doffing action

The difference between carding and doffing action is given below,

Carding Action	Doffing Action
1. Two surfaces wire point are inclined in opposite direction and their speed direction is also opposite.	1. Two surface wire points are inclined in opposite direction but their speed direction is same.
2. It is occurred between flat and cylinder.	2. It is occurred between cylinder and doffer.
3. The speed difference between two surfaces is more.	3. The speed difference between two surfaces is less.
4. Maximum amount of fibers stay in lower speedy surface.	4. Some amount of fibers stay in lower speedy surface.
5. Fibers are mainly individualized by this section.	5. Sliver formation is performed by this section.

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Comber

To remove short fibers, neps, impurities by using a comb is called combing. These removes by brushes and rollers which assisted of combs. This process is done by a comber machine. This process is carried out to improve quality of the sliver which is coming out from the card.

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Final Quoted costing of T- Shirt

Suppose:

1.     Body fabric consumption                 =4.05Kg/doz

     Total yarn consumption                    =4.05 +9% OWF

                                                                 =4.41Kg/ dz

2.     The current yarn price                       = $ 4.1 /kg

3.     PK knitting cost                                = $ 0.20/kg

4.     Average color dying only cost           =$1.21/Kg

5.     Flat knitting cost                               = $0.05/body

6.     Color & cuff consumption                =60g/body

     Color & cuff yarn charge                  =0.06×12+9%

                                                                  =0.78/kgdz

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Garments Dyeing Flowchart

Flowchart for Woven Garments:

Garments from grey fabric

↓

Desizing

↓

Scouring

↓

Bleaching

↓

Dyeing

↓← Rinsing

↓

After treatment

↓

Washing and rinsing

↓

Hydro-extraction

↓

Drying

Woven garments made of pre-treated fabric:

Garments

↓

Pre-Wash

↓

Dyeing

↓

After treatment

↓

Washing and rinsing

↓

Hydro-extraction

↓

Drying

Flowchart for Knit Garments:

Knit wear

↓

Washing/Desizing

↓

Scouring and bleaching

↓

Dyeing

↓

After treatment

↓

Washing and rinsing

↓

Hydro-extraction

↓

Drying

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Classification of Cotton on the basis of length

According to their staple length there are three types of cotton fiber,

1. Short Staple	Length= ⅜ inch to 1 inch. Coarse and low strength and no or little luster. Diameter= 13-22 micron. Example= Indian and Asiatic cotton.
2. Medium Staple	Length= 0.5 inch to 1.25 inch. Medium strength and medium luster. Diameter= 12-17 micron. Example: American cotton.
3. Long Staple	Length= 1 inch to 2.5inch. Fine luster and top quality cotton. Diameter= 10-12 micron. Example= Sea Island cotton and Egyptian cotton.

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Process sequence of Cotton Cultivation and Harvesting

Process sequence of Cotton Cultivation and Harvesting:

Seed are sown in spring

↓

They sprout after 2-3 week

↓

After 2-3 months of sprouting plant flowe3rs bloom

↓

The flowers fall off after a few days and leaving cotton balls.

↓

Seed hairs start to grow inside the balls

↓

For 16-18 days fiber length and other parameter are achieved

↓

For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the fiber

↓

When cellulose deposition is stopped, the balls become dry and burst normally and the cotton appears as a soft wad of fine fiber

↓

The balls are picked up manually or by machine, these picking periods continue for 1-3 months.

↓

Finally the balls are taken for ginning to collect the fibers.

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Fabric Consumption of a Basic Woven Shirt

Measurement required:

1. Body length (HSP) = 75cm.
2. ½ Chest= 55cm.
3. Sleeve length= 65cm.
4. Arm hole (Straight) = 25cm.
5. Collar length= 41cm.
6. Collar width= 6cm.
7. Collar band length= 32cm.
8. Collar band width= 2cm.
9. Pocket length= 14cm.
10. Pocket width= 12cm.
11. Extra yoke length= 48cm.
12. Extra yoke height= 11.5cm.
13. Fabric width= 56inch.
14. Wastage= 5%.

Body Section:

A= (Body length + Allowance) × (½ chest + Allowance) × 2

   = (75+5) × (55+6) × 2 sq.cm.

   = 9760 sq.cm.

Sleeve Section:

B= (Sleeve length + Allowance) × (Arm hole + Allowance) ×2×2

   = (65+4) × (25+) ×4 sq.cm.

   =8280 sq.cm.

Collar Section:

C= (Collar length+ Allowance) × (Collar width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (41+4) × (6+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 720 sq.cm.

Collar Band Section:

D= (Collar band length+ Allowance) × (Collar band width+ Allowance) ×2

   = (32+3) × (2+2) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 280 sq.cm.

Pocket Section:

E= (Pocket length+ Allowance) × (Pocket width+ Allowance)

   = (14+2) ×(12+1) sq.cm.

   = 208 sq.cm.

Extra Yoke Section:

F= (Yoke length+ Allowance) ×( Yoke height+ Allowance) ×2

   = (48+4) × (11.5+3) ×2 sq.cm.

   = 108 sq.cm.

Total Fabric Consumption = A+B+C+D+E+F

     = 9760+8280+720+280+208+1508

     = 20756 sq.cm.

Now divided this amount by (2.54)2, then we will get 3217.18 sq.inch.

So, Total Fabric Required = (3217.18/56) inch.

                                           = (57.45/36) yards.

                                           = 1.6yards.

So, Fabric Consumption per dozen= 1.6× 12 +5% OLF

                                                        = (19.2+ 0.96) Yards.

                                                        = 20.16 yards.

Fabric Price per Yards is = $2.5

So, Fabric Cost = $2.5× 20.16

                          = $ 50.4

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Thread Consumption of Basic Denim Pant

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Thread Consumption of Basic Woven Shirt

In textile industry there are different types of sewing machines. Each machine never needs fixed amount thread to stitch. Different types of stitch need different amount of thread. Explain below,

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Cutting

To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary, cutting means to cut the garments piece from lays of fabric with help of cutting equipment and template. During cutting the marker is applied to top ply of lay.

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Center close shed

Center close shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to from the top line & downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line, then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet the center. Here warp threads move in an upward & downward direction from a center line.

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Why cotton fiber is very popular?

The reasons of why cotton fiber is very popular are given below:

1. Capacity to absorb moisture: Removing of wax coating from the fiber during processing of cotton readily absorbs moisture and that time the cotton allows the moisture to evaporate. Evaporation makes the cotton fiber very comfortable to wear, because cotton allows the human body to breath. Strength: When we dry the cotton its take more time than other fibers. However, the cotton fiber is very stronger when the condition is wet than dry. It means we can wash frequently any kind of cotton products.

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Cotton Color

To determine the cotton color there are two parameters. These are:

1. Degree of reflectance (Rd)

2. Yellowness (+b).

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Cellulose

Cellulose is a polymer. Polymer means many unit of monomer. Here poly means mono and mer means unit. Many thousands units of glucose molecule are used to made it. To form one molecule of cellulose, 10000 molecules of glucose may need in a chain. Molecular arrangement can vary to leads the cellulose which is different types. To make up cotton fiber there are millions of molecules are needed. 

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Cotton History

The most common fiber is cotton which is widely used in this world. To attain commercial importance the cotton is the last natural fiber. The Greek historian Herodotus in the fifth century he reported that among the valuable products in India was the wild plant that bears fleece as its fruit.

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