Disperse Dye

Dyeing of cellulose acetate the disperse dye was originally developed. Disperse dye is water insoluble dye. Disperse dye can be used to dye polyester, acrylic fiber, nylon and triacetate. To dyeing with disperse dye there is needed 130ºC temperature and the dye bath must be pressurized.

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Basic Dye

Basic dye mainly applied in acrylic fibers. Basic dyes are water soluble cationic dyes. Basic dye also applied to some wool or silk. In certain nylon and protein fibers the basic dyes is also applied. Basic dyes are typically cationic or positively charged when it’s at the chemical level. Basic dyes are also known as cationic dyes.

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Acid Dye

To dye protein fibers such as wool, silk etc, the acid dye is used. And also to dye milk protein fiber which is called Silk Latte, Soy protein fiber called soy silk and also the synthetic polyamide fiber nylon.

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Vat Dye

Vat dye is mainly water insoluble dye.  In an alkali aqueous solution the vat dyes are normally applied to the fiber. Alkali aqueous solutions are subsequently oxidized in the fiber to the insoluble form.

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Dyes

Colored substance of dyeing which has an affinity to the substrate is known as Dyes. Generally dyes applied in aqueous solution. The main aim of dyes is to improve the fastness of fiber and fabrics. Dyes are also applied in Textiles, Leather, Plastics, and Paper in liquid form.

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Cutting

To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary, cutting means to cut the garments piece from lays of fabric with help of cutting equipment and template. During cutting the marker is applied to top ply of lay.

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Water

Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid.  It is a chemical compound consisting of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen. The name water typically refers to the liquid state of the compound. The solid phase is known as ice and gas phase is called steam. Water contains 11.188 percent hydrogen and 88.812 percent oxygen, by weight. It’s freezing at 32°F or 0°C and boiling at 212°F or 100°C.

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Overlock Sewing Machine

For seaming, edging or hemming the overlock machine is perfect which sew the one or two pieces of cloth. After sew the fabric overlock machine cut the edge of the fabric. In North America this is called Sergers. But there is some overlock machine which not included cutter. Cutters helps to done the work very fast, easily and quickly. Overlock machine is not same as lockstitch sewing machine which uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. The RPM of overlock machine is 1000 to 9000. Overlock sewing machine is also can be used for construction, reinforcement or decoration.

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Basic Shirt

Component of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Collar.

2)    Collar band or collar stand.

3)    Upper yoke.

4)    Lower yoke.

5)    Left front part.

6)    Right front part.

7)    Sleeve.                

a)     R-Sleeve

b)    L-Sleeve

8)    Cuff.                   

9)    Placket.                

a)     Upper placket.

b)    Lower Placket.

10)           Back part.

11)           Pocket.                       

12)           Facing.                        

a)     Upper facing                

b)    Lower facing                          

Sketch of a Basic Shirt

Accessories and trimmings of a Basic Shirt:

1)    Sewing Thread.

2)    Button.                 

3)    Label                     

a.     Care label

b.     Size label

c.      Main label

4)    Interlining.

5)    Motif.

6)    Neck board

7)    Back board.

8)    Hang tag.

9)    Price ticket.

10)     Tag pin

11)     Tissue Paper.

12)     Polly bag.

Machine required for making shirt: Mainly two machines are used for basic shirt making. These are:

a.     Over lock m/c

b.     Plain stitch m/c

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Inline Inspection

The design of inline inspection is to quantify the packing, workmanship and measurement defect levels of the production lots. This will assist in determining if the manufacturing process is achieving the desired level of product quality.

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Fabric Package

Types of Fabric Package:

1. Open fabric roll:

         i. Most of the time fabric is supplied by wrapping over a tube which is about of 7 to 8cm dia.

        ii. The widths of the fabric roll vary from 75cm to 3m.

2. Tubular knitted fabric roll:

       i. Most of the knitted fabric is found in tubular form and they are supplied in roll from.

      ii. Tube roll usually have the same width as the garments width such as T-Shirt, Polo Shirt

3. Folded fabric roll:

     i. In this type of package fabric is wrapped over 1-2cm thick and hard board.

     ii. This type of fabric package is generally used by retail seller.

4. Folded fabric cuttled:

     i. Check fabric & knitted fabric are found in this type of package.

    ii. This type of package is used to avoid distortion of these fabrics.

5. Hanging fabric package:

     i. Velvet or expensive types of fabrics are found in this package.

    ii. Only manual spreading is possible for this type of package.

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Center close shed

Center close shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to from the top line & downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line, then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet the center. Here warp threads move in an upward & downward direction from a center line.

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Timing of Shedding

The shedding mechanism is set according to the picking & beat-up mechanisms. Timing of shedding is set with respect to crank position. In general there are three timings. These are:

1. Normal shedding
2. Early shedding
3. Late shedding

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